Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
